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This page describes terms and jargon related to climbing and mountaineering.
American death triangle : A type of climbing anchor known for its weakness due to the physics of its construction.
Abseil : The process by which a climber may descend a fixed rope. Also known as Rappel.
Adze : A thin blade mounted perpendicular to the handle on an ice axe that can be used for chopping footholds.
Altitude sickness : A medical condition that is often observed at high altitudes. Also known as Acute mountain sickness, or AMS.
Anchor :An arrangement of one or (usually) more pieces of gear set up to support the weight of a belay or toprope
Arête : An outside corner of rock. Also a method of indoor climbing, in which one is able to use such a corner as a hold. See also dihedral.
Ascend : To complete a route or problem, sometimes shortened simply to "send".
Ascender : A device for ascending on a rope.
ATC : A proprietary type of belay device. (A subtle play on fact that ATC also stands for Air traffic controller.)
"B"-grade : A grading system for bouldering problems, invented by John Gill. Now largely superseded by the "V" grading system.
Back-clipping : A hazardous mistake that can be made while lead climbing. The belay rope is clipped into a quickdraw in the wrong direction causing an increase in friction on the rope and an increase in the likelihood of the rope becoming unclipped during a fall.
Belay : To protect a climber from falling using a rope, friction, and an anchor.
Belay device : A mechanical device used to create friction when belaying by putting bends in the rope. Many types of belay device exist, including ATC, grigri, Reverso, Sticht plate, eight and tuber. Some belay devices may also be used as descenders. A Munter hitch can sometimes be used instead of a belay device.
Bergschrund (or schrund): A crevasse that forms on the upper portion of a glacier where the moving section pulls away from the headwall. Also called a 'shrund.
Beta flash : Ascent of a climb on the first attempt with some knowledge beta of that climb, with no falls or hangdogging. Also see on-sight.
Biner : See Carabiner.
Bivy (or bivvy): A camp, or the act of camping, from "bivouac." On a big wall, camp can be made on a natural ledge or an artificial one, generally a cotlike device called a portaledge that hangs from anchors on the wall.
Bolt : A point of protection permanently installed in a hole drilled into the rock, to which a metal hanger is attached, having a hole for a biner or ring.
Bolt chopping : The deliberate and destructive removal of one or more bolts.
Bomb-proof anchor : A totally secure anchor. Also known as a bomber. Anchors are often misclassified as such.
Bouldering : The practise of climbing on large boulders. Typically this is close to the ground, so protection takes the form of crash pads and spotting instead of belay ropes.
Buildering : The art of climbing on buildings, which is often illegal.
Cairn : A distinctive pile of stones placed to designate a summit or mark a trail above treeline.
Cams : A spring-loaded device used as protection.
Campus board : Training equipment used to build finger strength and strong arm lock-offs.
Carabiner : Metal rings with spring-loaded gates, used as connectors. Also known as crab or biner.
Chalk : A compound used to improve grip by absorbing sweat. It is actually gymnastics chalk, usually magnesium carbonate. Its use is controversial in some areas.
The process of using such a technique.
Chock : A mechanical device, or a wedge, used as anchors in cracks.
A naturally occurring stone wedged in a crack.
Classification : See Grade.
Clawing : Use of front points of crampons, ice axe pick and ice hammer pick to climb a slope.
A route that is free of loose vegetation and rocks.
To complete a climb without falling or resting on the rope. Also see redpoint.
In aid climbing, abbreviated "C", a route that does not require the use of a hammer or any invasive addition of protection (such as pitons or copperheads) into the rock (see protection).
Cleaning tool : A device for removing jammed equipment, especially nuts, from a route. Also known as a nut key.
Climbing area : A region that is plentiful with climbing routes.
Climbing command : A short phrase used for communication between a climber and a belayer.
Climbing gym : Specialized indoor climbing centres. See gym climbing.
Climbing shoe : Footwear designed specifically for climbing. Usually well fitting, with a rubber sole.
Climbing technique : Particular techniques, or moves, commonly applied in climbing.
Climbing wall : Artificial rock, typically in a climbing gym.
Clipping in : The process of attaching to belay lines or anchors for protection.
Col : A small pass or "saddle" between two peaks. Excellent for navigation as when standing on one it's always down in two, opposite, directions and up in the two directions in between those.
Cornice : An overhanging edge of snow on a ridge.
Couloir : A steep gully or gorge frequently filled with snow or ice.
Crack climbing : To ascend on a rock face by wedging body parts into cracks, i.e. not face climbing. See jamming and chimney.
Crag : A small area with climbing routes, often just a small cliff face or a few boulders.
Crampons : Metal framework with spikes attached to boots to increase safety on snow and ice.
Cramponing : Using crampons to ascend or descend on ice, preferably with maximum number of points of the crampon into the ice for weight distribution.
Accidentally piercing something with a crampon spike.
Crash pad : A thick mat used to soften landings or to cover hazardous objects in the event of a fall. See: Bouldering mat
Crimp : A small but positive hold, with very little surface area. See also Nub.
The process of holding onto a crimp.
Daisy chain : A special purpose type of sling with multiple sewn, or tied, loops. It is significantly weaker than a normal sling.
Dead hang : To hang limp, such that weight is held by ligament tension rather than muscles.
Deadman anchor : An object buried into snow to serve as an anchor for an attached rope. One common type of such an anchor is the snow fluke.
Deadpoint :A dynamic climbing technique in which the hold is grabbed at the apex of upward motion. This technique places minimal strain on both the hold and the arms.
To hit the ground, usually the outcome of a fall.
Descender : A device for controlled descent on a rope. Many belay devices may be used as descenders, including ATCs, eights, or even carabiners.
Diamox : A drug used to inhibit the onset of altitude sickness. Otherwise known as Acetazolamide.
Dihedral : An inside corner of rock, with more than a 90-degree angle between the faces. See also arête.
Dry tooling : Using tools for ice climbing like crampons and ice axes on rock.
Dulfersitz : A method of rappelling, without mechanical tools, where the uphill rope is straddled by the climber then looped around a hip, across the chest, over the opposite (weak) shoulder, and held with the downhill (strong) hand to adjust the shoulder friction and thus the descending speed.
Dynamic rope : A slightly elastic rope that softens falls to some extent. Also tend to be damaged less severely by heavy loads. Compare with static rope.
Dynamic motion : Any move in which body momentum is used to progress. As opposed to static technique where three-point suspension and slow, controlled movement is the rule.
Edging : Using the edge of the climbing shoe on a foothold.
Egyptian : A climbing technique used to reduce tension in arms while holding a side grip.
Eight-thousander : A mountain that tops 8,000 metres.
Eliminate : A term from bouldering describing a move or series of moves in which either certain holds are placed 'off bounds' or other artificial restrictions are imposed.
Face climbing : To ascend a vertical rock face using finger holds, edges and smears, i.e. not crack climbing.
Fall : Undesirable downward motion. Hopefully stopped by a rope, otherwise see mountain rescue.
Fist jam : A type of jam using the hand. See climbing technique.
Fixed rope : A rope which has a fixed attachment point. Commonly used for abseiling or aid climbing.
Flagging : Climbing technique where a leg is held in a position to maintain balance, rather than to support weight. Often useful to prevent barn-dooring.
Flash : To successfully and cleanly complete a climbing route on the first attempt after receiving beta either by discussing the route or by watching another climber.
Follow : What the second does.
Fourteener : Mountain that tops 14,000 feet in the contiguous United States.
Free climbing : Climbing without unnatural aids, other than used for protection.
Friction : Climbing technique relying on the friction between the sloped rock and the sole of the shoe to support the climber's weight, as opposed using holds or edges, cracks, etc.
Friend : A name brand of a type of spring loaded camming device (SLCD), sometimes used to refer to any type of spring loaded camming device.
A usually insecure fin or flake of rock or ice.
Geneva rappel : A modified dulfersitz rappel using the hip and downhill arm for friction, rather than the chest and shoulder, offering less complexity, but less friction and less control.
Glacier travel : walking or climbing on a glacier; a rope is usually used to arrest falls into crevasses, but protection is not used.
Glissade : A usually voluntary act of sliding down a steep slope of snow.
Gorp : Trail mix for periodic nibbling to keep high energy level between meals on long climbs or hikes. An acronym for 'Good Ol' Raisins & Peanuts'
Grade : Intended as an objective measure of the technical difficultly of a particular climb or bouldering problem. More often is highly subjective, however.
A surveying term for referring to the slope of an incline. (Grade (geography))
Grigri : A belay device designed to be easy to use and safer for beginners because it is self-locking under load. Invented and manufactured by Petzl. Many experienced climbers advocate the use of an atc type device for beginners
A climbing route judged to be without redeeming virtue.
HACE : High Altitude Cerebral Edema - a severe, and often fatal, form of altitude sickness.
Hand traverse : Traversing without any definitive footholds, i.e. smearing or heelhooking.
Hangdog : While lead climbing or on top rope, to hang on the rope or a piece of protection for a rest.
Hanging belay : Belaying at a point such that the belayer is suspended.
HAPE : High Altitude Pulmonary Edema - a serious form of altitude sickness.
Harness : See climbing harness. A sewn nylon webbing device worn around the waist and thighs that is designed to allow a person to safely hang suspended in the air.
Helmet : Also known as a brain bucket or skid lid. It can save your life, but only while worn.
Hexcentric : A protective device. It is an eccentric hexagonal nut attached to a wire loop. The nut is inserted into a crack and it holds through counter-pressure. Often just termed Hex.
Hook : Equipment used in aid climbing.
A climbing technique involving hooking a heel or toe against a hold in order to balance or to provide additional support.
Ice axe : A handy tool for safety and balance, having a pick/adze head and a spike at the opposite end of a shaft.
Ice hammer : A lightweight ice axe with a hammer/pick head on a short handle and no spike.
Ice screw : A screw used to protect a climb over steep ice or for setting up a crevasse rescue system. The strongest and most reliable is the modern tubular ice screw which ranges in length from 18 to 23 cm.
Ice piton : Long, wide, serrated piton once used for weak protection on ice.
Indoor climbing : See gym climbing.
Jug hold : A large, easily held hold. Also known simply as a jug.
Jumar :
Klemheist knot : An alternative to the Prusik knot, useful when the climber is short of cord but has plenty of webbing.
Knots : Climbers rely on many different knots for anchoring oneself to a mountain, joining two ropes together, slings for climbing up the rope, etc.
Lead climbing : A form of climbing in which the climber places anchors and attaches the belay rope as they climb.
Leader Fall : A fall while Lead climbing. A fall from above the climbers last piece of protection. The falling leader will fall at least twice the distance back to her last piece, plus slack and rope stretch.
Lieback : Or layback. A climbing move that involves pulling on the hands while pushing on the feet.
Locking carabiner : A carabiner with a locking gate, to prevent accidental release of the rope.
Mantle : A move used to surmount a ledge or feature in the rock in the absence of any useful holds directly above. It involves pushing down on a ledge or feature instead of pulling down. In ice climbing, a mantle is done by moving the hands from the shaft to the top of the ice tool and pushing down on the head of the tool.
The external covering of a climbing rope. Climbing ropes use kernmantle construction consisting of a kern (or core) for strength and an external sheath called the mantle.
Moat : A crevasse that forms where the glacier pulls away from a rock formation.
Mountain rescue : A friendly team of people that may come and rescue you after an injury or accident. May also search for overdue climbers, at no small peril and expense. Also see coroner and rescue doctrine of negligence law.
Move : Application of a specific climbing technique to progress on a climb.
Multi-pitch climbing : Climbing on routes that are too long for a single belay rope.
Munter hitch : A simple hitch that is often used for belaying without a mechanical belay device. Otherwise known as an Italian hitch or a Friction hitch.
Névê : Permanent granular ice formed by repeated freeze-thaw cycles.
Nut : A metal wedge attached to a wire loop that is inserted into cracks for protection. See hexcentric.
Nut Key : See Cleaning Tool
Off-width : A crack that is too wide for effective hand or foot jams, but is not as large as a chimney.
On-sight : A clean ascent, with no prior practice or beta.
Open book : An inside angle in the rock. See also dihedral.
Overhang : A section of rock or ice that is angled beyond vertical. See roof.
Peak-bagging : To systematically attain designated summits under prescribed conditions.
Pendulum : Swinging on taut rope to reach the next hold in a pendulum traverse.
Pickets : Long, tubular rods driven into snow to provide a quick anchor.
Picknick stop : A No-hand rest.
Pinkpoint : To complete a lead climb without falling or resting on the rope (hangdogging), but with pre-placed protection and carabiners. Also see clean and redpoint.
Pitch : In the strictest climbing definition, a pitch is considered one rope length (50-60 meters). However, in guide books and route descriptions, a pitch is the portion of a climb between two belay points.
Piton : A flat or angled metal blade of steel which incorporates a clipping hole for a carabiner or a ring in its body. A piton is typically used in "aid-climbing" and an appropriate size and shape is hammered into a thin crack in the rock and preferably removed by the last team member.
Problem : Used in bouldering, the path that a climber takes in order to complete the climb. Same as route in roped climbing.
Protection : Process of setting equipment or anchors for safety.
Equipment or anchors used for arresting falls. Commonly known as Pro.
Prusik : A knot used for ascending a rope. It is named after Dr Karl Prusik, the Austrian mountaineer who developed this knot in 1931.
To use a Prusik knot for ascending a rope.
Pumped : To have such an accumulation of lactic acid in the flexor digitalis (forearm), that forming even a basic grip becomes impossible. Often easy activities such as holding a joint become difficult or impossible.
Quickdraw : Used to attach a freely running rope to anchors or chocks. Sometimes called "quickies" or just "draws."
Rappel : The process by which a climber may descend on a fixed rope using a friction device. Also known as Abseil or roping down..
Redpoint : To complete a lead climb without falling or resting on the rope (hangdogging). Also see clean and pinkpoint.
Retro-bolting : The addition of bolts to an existing climb.
Rope : An basic item of climbing equipment that literally connects the climber to the belayer.
Runner : Another term for sling.
Runout : An inordinate span between two points of protection.
A long portion of a route with minimal protection.
RURP : Acronym, stands for Realized Ultimate Reality Piton. Miniature, postage-stamp sized piton originally designed by Yvon Chouinard
Saddle : A high pass between two peaks, larger than a col.
Sandbag : A climb which receives a much lower grade than deserved. A traditionally protected climb can, if undergraded, be very dangerous, and the term sandbag is often said with a note of respectful dread.
Scrambling : Non-technical climbing; climbing with very poor form.
Serac : A large ice tower.
Sharp end : The end of the belay rope that is attached to the lead climber.
Sirdar : Head Sherpa mountain guide.
SLCD : Abbreviation for spring-loaded camming device, a type of protection device. These are better known by the term cam.
Sling : Webbing sewn, or tied, into a loop.
Smearing : To use friction on the sole of the climbing shoe, in the absence of any useful footholds.
Snow fluke : An angled aluminium plate attached to a metal cable. The fluke is buried into snow, typically used as a deadman anchor.
Solo climbing : Climbing without any protection (free solo) or setting and cleaning ones own protection on an ascent.
Sport climbing : A style of climbing where form, technical (or gymnastic) ability and strength are more emphasized over exploration, self-reliance and the exhilaration of the inherent dangers involved in the sport. Sport climbing routes tend to be well protected with pre-placed bolt-anchors and lends itself well to competitive climbing.
Spotting : An alternative to belaying commonly used during bouldering. A friend of the climber stands beneath them and prevents awkward falls or falls onto hazards.
Static : Of a style of climbing or specific move, not dynamic.
Static rope : A non-elastic rope. Compare with dynamic rope.
Talus : Large rock fragments forming an often unstable slope below scree.
Teabagging : When, after a whipper, or long fall, a climber falls past their belayer, who is generally lifted up off the ground.
Technical climbing : Climbing involving a rope and some means of protection, as opposed to scrambling or glacier travel.
Thrutching : Bad technique or 'body climbing' specifically at Mount Arapiles
Top rope : To belay from a fixed anchor point above the climb.
Traditional climbing : A style of climbing that emphasizes the adventure and exploratory nature of climbing. While sport climbers generally will use pre-placed protection, many traditional (or "trad") climbers will place their own protection as they climb, generally with a rack.
Tramming : A technique that is typically used while cleaning gear from a steep route. A quickdraw is clipped between the climber's harness and the rope that is threaded through the gear. As the climber is lowered by the belayer, they will descend along the line of the gear.
A feature of a route that allows relatively easy progress in a horizontal direction. A Tyrolean traverse is crossing a chasm using a rope anchored at both ends. A pendulum traverse involves swinging from a protection point.
"V"-grade : A technical grading system for bouldering problems, invented by John Sherman.
Verglas : A thin coating of ice that forms over rocks when rainfall or melting snow freezes on rock. Hard to climb on as crampons have insufficient depth for reliable penetration.
Wand : A bamboo stick with a small flag on top used to mark paths over glaciers and snow fields.
Webbing : Hollow and flat nylon strip, mainly used to make runners and slings.
Weighting : As in, "weighting the rope." Any time the rope takes the weight of the climber. This can happen during a minor fall, a whipper (long fall), or simply by resting while hanging on the belay rope (see also hangdogging.)
Whipper : A lead fall from above and to the side of the last clip, whipping oneself downwards and in an arc. Has come to be the term for any fall beyond the last placed or clipped piece of protection.
Wired : To have the moves required for completing a climb memorized. See dialled.
Wires : A slang term for nuts.
Woodie : A home made climbing wall. Often specifically a hybrid between a climbing wall and a fingerboard. Specifically called such because of the wooden panels (usually left unpainted) used to attach the climbing holds to.
Yosemite Decimal System : A numerical system for rating the difficulty of walks, hikes, and climbs in the United States. The rock climbing (5.x) portion of the scale is the most common climb grading system used in the US. The scale runs from 5.0 to 5.15a (as of 2005)
Yabo : Another name for a Sit start, a 'Yabo start' was named after John 'Yabo' Yablonski[1].
Z-clipping : Clipping into an anchor with the segment of rope from beneath the previous anchor, resulting in an unsafe configuration of the belay rope.
Zipper fall : A fall in which each piece of protection fails in turn.
Z-pulley : A particular configuration of rope, anchors, and pulleys typically used to extricate a climber after falling into a crevasse.